May/June 2013

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MAY 2013….La Paz to Aqua Verde

La Paz again. Our cruiser friends Goldenheart and Reisender were at the dock to welcome us back. They organised the first ever dock party at Marina Cortez. It was a roaring success based on the fact nobody was going home.

I invited the Canadians Lee and Cynthia from Goldenheart and also the Americans Scott and Jerid from Reisender to an Australiana night. We served up crackers and vegemite, cooked up a Lamb Roast with roast vegetables and made a Pavlova covered in cream and fresh fruit. We found a bottle of Australian red wine and dug out the Australian flag. Craig put together enough music from Australian artists to last the entire evening. It was a great night.

Aussie night with 'Bluey', Scott from Reisender & us!

Then the Americans did an American night. Fried green tomatoes, Devilled eggs, Pulled Pork & Jerrids home made BBQ sauce, finished with refreshing watermelon. It was all delicious! And lots of wine of course.

Jerid…cooking up a Southern Carolina menu!

The best thing for us was the Canadians then did a Canadian night – A Red & White theme of Salmon patties, Chicken and Red Pepper parcels, Rice salad with Cranberries, Strawberries cream and Chocolate + Baileys, Brandy and wine. Yum.. I so love it when someone else cooks.


I decided to paint my outboard. I wanted something Australian, us, True Blue V. I wanted to have some fun with it. I figure I will be able to identify it if it gets stolen.

The Turtle is the Star of this Outboard!

Goldenheart and Reisender then put their hand up for a custom paint job. Why not!

Love the moose!

The Canadian outboard got a Moose and Canadian Flag.

Reisender wanted a Southern Carolina flag. They sail with 2 cats on board so they were painted on as well.

The 'cats' are the Stars of this outboard motor

18th May

Finally departed La Paz. Anchored 2 nights at Carlita Pardida, Isla Espiritu Santo 21nm from La Paz. We went for a dinghy excursion through the winding passage between the 2 islands. We explored the sea caves. This $30m Wally power boat was also cruising the Sea of Cortez with a large White Boat. Both are owned by the McLaren Group (Formula One).

That's a WALLY behind Craig.

20th May

We moved on to Isla San Francisco 44nm from La Paz, where we kayaked to the beach and hiked the trail up along the ridge line for a great view of the anchorage. We walked along the beach looking for Agates in amongst all the rocks. Then time to try out our snorkelling gear. We paddled over to the rocky point and saw a variety of fish. Water temp varied between warm, hot and cold. Visibility not very good.

Isla San Francisco

We are moving north into the Sea of Cortez.

We stopped at Bahia Amortajada on San Jose Island. There are mangroves and a lagoon which we want to explore in the dinghy. Craig bought his fishing rod with a popper and we caught 2 x Mangrove Jack. It was great fun. We had fish whole and stuffed with rice and salad for dinner last night. Delicious.

Having fun in the mangroves.

Craig caught these 2 using a surface popper.

23rd May

Next stop was San Evarista anchorage. From here we did a day trip to Punta Salinas (San Ysidro) Isla San Jose. We had a great morning. We kayaked to the beach and spent the morning strolling through the ruins of an old salt mining business. There are a few old ruins of truck and heavy equipment rusting on the beach. Giant salt ponds are still evident – one which looks like a pink lagoon. We had fun taking photographs.

Turkey Vulture

25th May

Next stop was Puerto los Gatos. We snorkelled the point before hiking up to the Fisherman's Cross that overlooks the bay. A highlight of this anchorage is the rounded sandstone boulders and pink sandstone cliffs. The views and sandstone colors were fabulous. Saw lots of dolphins – one or two were doing some great tail slapping. Just after lunch Craig looked out the port light to see a yacht passing close by. It was “True Companion” Darwin NT with Gravel and Nat on board, whom we had met previously in La Paz. Gravel did his Ham radio exam with us. Later, we paddled over to their boat in the kayak and played Grass and Farkle. Just before dark we paddled back and cooked up the 3 lobsters which the fisherman had sold to us earlier.

Los Gatos

27 May

Next stop Agua Verde. Water Green?!

True Blue V dropped anchor along the beach in front of the village. We watched the fishermen come and go, the kids splash in the water, the dogs play on the beach and the goat parade go past. We had sundowners on the side of the boat and ate delicious fish and chips for dinner. Nice.

Up early. We kayaked to the beach and enjoyed walking around the rocky point weaving in and out of large boulders, like a maze. We went through caves, along ledges, through water, under and over boulders. It was great. And a unique experience. We kayaked back to the boat and watched episodes of Boston Legal.

Mushroom Rock

JUNE 2013…..Puerto Escondido to Santa Rosalia

Next stop Puerto Escondido. Our sail north became an adventure as the NW breeze built to 25 knots and then kept going to 40 knots. We had too much sail out for 40 knots so had to keep pointing up into the wind. 7.5 knots sailing. Eventually it reduced until we only had 3 knots and had to motor. The Sea has lots of micro-climates so different areas do different things. It can be quite different to the forecast. You need to be prepared for anything.

Yesterday, Craig noticed a Maple Leaf 42 nearby. It was “Goldenheart”. They invited us over for dinner on their boat with Phyllis and Gary from AppleLima. I made a quiche to take. It was a good night. Phyllis was driving in to Loreto the next day so we all piled in with her. Yay....our first road trip. 14Miles. Loreto is a delightful Mexican town on the seaside. There are restaurants, cafes, arts and crafts, pottery. Craig bought a hammock so that he can hang off the boom and roll over into the water. LOL. He will have to put his beer down first.

A day trip to Loreto.

Mexican ceramics are full of colour.

8th June

Next stop Ballandra, Isla Carmen

A lovely anchorage. Banana pancakes for breakfast then off to catch fish. We came back with 4 Long Toms which are like a super sized garfish. They have a long beak with teeth. We tried eating them but too fiddly with too many bones. Anything that nobody wants to eat is abundant around here.

Goldenheart arrived and dropped anchor nearby. They are keen to go out fishing so we are taking 2 dinghys out tomorrow after Dorado or Bonito, preferable something to eat. It was fun. Got some strikes but Craig was the only one to bring a fish back. It was a Bonito. We had thrown a heap of these away but this one was going to be lunch for the 4 of us. Craig bled it out as soon as he caught it. Craig is cooking it 'Cajun style' on the BBQ. I made a green salad and Cynthia bought a rice/bean salad. It was a very nice lunch. I think there are nicer fish to eat but that was a fresh and healthy meal.

Lee and Cynthia with Goldenheart in the background

Cynthia checking out the catch of the day.

Later that day, Craig wanted to go for a look around the rocks. We no sooner climbed into the dinghy when we saw dolphins disappearing around the point. So off we went, WooHoo! We caught up to them and then went ahead of them and let them pass us whilst we tagged along behind them. Some of them joined our dinghy – 6 at our bow just cruising along. Dolphins, dolphins, dolphins. They were quite large. I was watching them. I was leaning over the front of the dinghy, clapping. I was watching them rolling onto their side watching me watching them. We were dolphins...we were in the pack cruising along with them. It was the best ever experience. I was so glad to have my instamatic camera and Craig took a video on it as well. When we reached a rocky point we decided to wave goodbye and head back to the boat.

We had lots of fun with these dolphins.

11th June

Isla Coronados. 5 nights at anchor here. Lovely, calm nights. We awoke to a boat covered in dew which around here means “BEES”. We have not seen any rain since we arrived in Mexico and the bees around here can sniff out a tiny drop of fresh water miles away. We put all our screens in and wait for the day to heat up so the bees will disappear. We climb the hill but not all the way. It is an extinct volcano and the going gets tough. We left too late in the morning and it was too hot so we decided on a swim instead.

Bluey loves to go hiking.

16th June

San Juanico Bay. 3 nights at anchor here. We went for a snorkel on the reef but visibility not good. We went for a dinghy ride around the beach, reef and rocks. We looked for clams but we didn't find any. We went for a walk over to La Ramada Bay and went for a swim. Craig picked up a handful of Obsidian Stones, also known here as Apache Tears.

At the Cruiser's Shrine we hung my highly decorated shells painted “True/Blue/V" and on the other side painted “2013/Australia/Craig & Leanne." The Tree Shrine was full of mementos from Cruisers. Engraved rocks, engraved/painted timbers, shells, a propeller, clothing, flags, bottles, driftwood etc. Not many cruisers carry paint on board so I would say I had a creative advantage.

The Cruiser's Shrine

Sunrise at San Juanico

Kiwi Kevin and Sally on Entre Nous arrived to the anchorage and invited us over for dinner. I took a beef salad. Bill and Julie from Voyager were also there. It was an enjoyable evening.

19th June

Bahia Concepcion 55nm. Motored out/sailed/motored/sailed 1/3 way

We saw whales and 100's dolphins. I've never seen so many. It was a great day. I really enjoyed the sailing and dolphins. Now at anchor. A quick dip, a shower and enjoying my Lime, Gin & Tonic as Craig tries to log on to a flaky internet connection.

20th June

Santa Rosalia, Fonatur Marina 10 nights

We had a good nights sleep but decided to keep moving north to Santa Rosalia. We need better internet connection as there are thing we need to send, get done, download etc. We will be coming back to Bahia Concepcion for Geary's Annual 4th July party.

The town of Santa Rosalia is like a museum. In Australia ,we would put a fence around it and charge admission. This town's history is rich in copper mining commencing in the 1860's. With Mexican copper exports to Europe increasing The French company, Compagnie du Boleo arrived and purchased existing claims. They made deals with the Mexican government and purchased more land totalling 2317 sq miles. Wood for construction was shipped from Canada and Oregon, and plant equipment like rails, railcars, engines, vehicles, fuel etc was shipped from Europe. Breakwaters for a protected harbour were completed in 1922. An electrical plant was built to run the massive plant operations. The remains of which can all be seen walking along the waterfront. I saw one photograph which had 20 tall ships waiting outside of the Breakwater. Next time we are here we will visit the cemetery as the labourers paid dearly with poor and dangerous working conditions.

Its a very interesting town. A working town. Not a lot of repairs or maintenance going on. In Australia, we would put a fence around this town and charge admission.

We walked through town checking out the French influence of the architecture. The steel constructed church, Iglesia Santa Barbara was designed by Gustave Eiffel.

23rd June

Super Moon is tonight. The closest the moon has been to the earth in 20 years.

Not a lot of cruisers are here yet. We have met Bernard and Becky on powerboat Worth Waiting 4 and solo sailor Wendy on Willow. We all went out for dinner one night and stopped in for ice-creams on the way back. Meeting fellow cruisers is as easy as walking along the dock.

True Blue V 2016